The second and final part of my visit to the Kalinago Territory in Dominica involved a tour of Kalinago Barana Autê (i.e., the Carib Cultural Village by the Sea). When we arrived in the hamlet of Salybia in the mid-afternoon it seemed rather quiet, with a mere handful of vehicles in the parking lot at the entrance to the cultural village. As we surveyed the scene, it was unclear if the facility was open or not, since there was a plastic tarpaulin partially covering the main reception building. Not being easily discouraged by this, after coming such a long way, we decided to press on into the heart of the village to try our luck.
Fortunately, we were rewarded for our persistence. The Kalinago Barana Aute was indeed open for tours and souvenir shopping. With this confirmed, obtaining nourishment quickly became imperative. It was almost three o’clock and we had barely eaten all day. Luckily there was a “canteen” at the cultural village which was still serving warm meals, as well as shots of bush rum and other alcoholic beverages. So we eagerly sat down to a scrumptuous lunch of chicken, yams and local vegetables, washed down with Carib sorrel shandy, after lubrication with a shot of fiery bush rum.
After finishing lunch, I went to the administration office cum gift shop, where I purchased a colorful, handmade bracelet along with a ‘site pass’ for a guided tour of the village. My guide was an affable, middle-aged Kalinago man, who was very knowledgeable about the past of the Kalinago Territory. In fact, he was reputed to be one of the last remaining custodians of Kalinago history. So he was definitely the right person for me to meet.
We started off the tour in a modest ‘museum’ hut containing several posters and photographs depicting important aspects of Kalinago culture, life, and history. As I digested the information the guide offered several insights and anecdotes, as well as answered the occasional question or two that I posed. One thing that stands out in my memory about this initial part of the tour, is the tour guides’ comment about how Kalinago women were traditionally portrayed in paintings. They were often painted showing their calves and buttocks prominently, since these were the physical features that they perceived to be most attractive.
The tour then continued with a stroll around the village grounds, which included several scattered buildings: A hut housing a traditional dugout canoe (or pirogue) and a carbet (pronounced “carbay”), which is often used for cultural performances. As we traversed the village compound I peppered the guide with questions about Thomas “Carib” Warner to see if he could offer deeper insights into who he was and what he meant/still means to the Kalinago people. To my surprise he offered a quite neutral view on Carib Warner.
The tour guide mentioned that it might be a good time bring back up Carib Warner’s legacy. Although he cautioned me that the impact of Carib Warner on the Kalinago was less clear cut than that of Paramount Chief Joseph Chatoyé in St. Vincent. His legacy was complicated by the fact that the Kalinago in Dominica were not all united under a single banner. The allegiance of the Leeward Kalinago was more to the British while on the Windward side of the island the French had favor. Carib Warner was based on the Leeward side of the island (at a place now called Massacre or “Massac” in Dominican patois), so he primarily had influence on this part of the island. At the time of his death and the massacre that ensued, there had been a protracted problem related to periodic raids being conducted by the Windward Kalinago on the British controlled islands of St. Kitts, Nevis and Antigua. It is alleged that Carib Warner’s half-brother, Philip, then Governor of Antigua, may have sought his brother’s support in stopping these raids. However, it was to no avail, since Carib Warner had limited influence on the Kalinago living on the windward side of the island. This likely was a contributing factor in his murder.
In other words, the story of Carib Warner is not so black and white for the Kalinago since he did not represent the interests of all Kalinago on the island. In some eyes he may have been perceived as a collaborator and traitor to his people since he had very close relations with the British and indeed may have acted as an agent serving their geopolitical and econimic interests. On the other hand he may have been an effective intermediary between the Kalinago and the European colonizers, which may have contributed to Dominica being one of the last islands in the Caribbean region to be fully colonized (with an indigenous population that remains to the present day).
Needless to say this was quite an enthralling discussion, which consumed the remainder of the tour of Kalinago Barana Autê. Towards the end we passed a stunning waterfall gushing into the Atlantic Ocean along Dominca’s jagged coastline. The sound of the surging water was defeaning yet at the same time silence inducing, as we lapsed into several moments without talking. My mind felt full as I processed the plethora of information I had received as well as the raw, awe-inspiring beauty of the this magnficent waterfall. It became clear to me in that instant that this was why I had come to Dominica. This was the highlight of my trip since it provided me with the insights I needed to write my next book, Warner’s Bacchanal. Thanks for stopping by!
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